6th Ave. @ Waverly Pl.
When I think of a classic diner, this is what I think of. It's no chrome trailer retro beast, but rather a cozy and warmly-lit working-class place, where the backless stools at the bar, the vinyl booth seats, the dark-wood paneling, choice decorations (more on that to come), and red-tied black-vested waitstaff make you feel right at home. Home it is, for me at least.
To say that this post will be biased might be an understatement. 'The Wave' was the first diner I had the pleasure of going to in New York. Brought there by my brother-in-law's sister on my first full day in the city, the establishment came highly recommended. The enormous menu, low cost, friendly staff, and charming personality of the place itself fast made it my favorite place to dine. I brought friends there by the dozen. So I'm attached- I freely and proudly admit it.
All of this is why I chose this location as my first to write about. When it comes to diners, this one is the standard by which I judge all others. That being said, I will do my best to write about it objectively, and I will stick to one experience in particular. I have to preserve some sort of credibility, right?
Monday, November 15, 2010. It is 7:00pm, and I have an evening off. Well, sort of off. Rehearsal won't begin until 9, which gives me a full two hours in the Village to myself. And there is no question about what I'll do with my few fleeting hours of freedom...
From every direction the old red-and-green neon sign announces the Waverly's presence in the classic way that all diners should. I have to wait about 5 minutes for a table, but any wait here is well worth it.
Sitting in one of the small booths (good for one or two people) I take a sip of my water, and stare at the menu. I already know what I'm getting, but let me give you an idea of what they have to offer here:
THE MENU: 11 legal-sized pages, chock full of anything you could ever possibly want to eat (and some things you probably wouldn't want to go near).
Cheapest option: $1.20 will get you Toast (your choice of bread), an English Muffin, or a Hard Roll w/ butter.
Priciest option: $33.45 for Broiled Twin Lobster Tails w/ Crab meat Stuffing, served with soup and a salad.
MY MEAL: Waverly Melt Deluxe ($9.75- they know me, and thus waved the $2.45 extra it costs to make it a deluxe) The menu describes it as a "Juicy burger on grilled American cheese w/ fried or Spanish onions, Homemade Coleslaw, & Pickle."-Proper English may not be this menu's strong point, but it doesn't have to be. The deluxe adds, fries, onion rings, and a run through the garden (which is diner lingo for adding lettuce and tomato).
The taste: Definitely juicy (aka greasy) and served medium rare. The buttered, toasted bread the burger comes on is almost entirely soaked through with grease on bottom, but the top slice is perfectly toasted. The Spanish onions (I"ll admit, I have no idea what that means) add a bit of tang to the burger. They aren't crispy, but soggy, stringy, and perfect on this burger. The lettuce and tomato add a nice crispy freshness to the otherwise unhealthy nature of the meal. Without the veggies, the burger might sit too heavy, but they manage to keep my mind off the grease I'm pouring down my gullet. The burger is a bit smaller than it normally is, but I don't mind because of the huge mound of fries accompanying the main course. The fries are thick-cut steak fries- a perfect pile of HOT fries; crispy on the outside and mushy on the in. The onion rings aren't particularly great, but they are big and offer a nice balance if you eat the three or four you get with every order little by little as the fry pile dwindles. The coleslaw is brilliant- not too soggy, not too dry. It is a nice way to finish the meal, along with.... THE PICKLE! A NY standard,
thanks to the Dutch, who had vast fields of them on their bouweries in early New Amsterdam. It is crisp and juicy and downright succulent (which term I usually reserve for meat).
THE JOE: Not great, not terrible. Bitter, hot, and perfect. And, a dying trend in restaurants around the world-
BOTTOMLESS!
THE ATMOSPHERE: The Waverly is small, but holds a lot of people, and the staff deals really well with turnovers, if you're standing near the bar hoping for a table. Huge windows open out onto Waverly Pl and 6th Ave- great for people watching Village-style. The Waverly side windows boast hanging ivy plants, which cover the walls and ceiling above the larger booths. The bar has a few backless stools, and behind it is a rack of half-eaten muffins and pies, along with the orange squeezer (want fresh OJ? They got it!). The walls are adorned with drawings, paintings and photographs of the location through the years. My favorite was transposed into a mural on the wall next to the bar- a scene from the 1800s, depicting a crowd watching the Harlem steam engine roll downtown past what is now the
Jefferson Market Library. All of this gives the place a cool, historical feel. But none of it can compare to my favorite aspect of the Waverly Restaurant (which, again, I'll come to later)
The SERVICE: Excellent! The staff is kind, quick, and hospitable. Seating is fast, they take your order as soon as you're ready (there are usually four or five of them floating around the space, covering all the tables simultaneously), and they clear your plates when you ask them to, and refill your coffee with no need for a request. In some places, the fast-pace of the waiters makes you feel unwanted, but here, it makes me feel like I'm being taken care of, and I am.
Being comfortable in an important part of a diner experience, whether you;'re there to eat fast, or mill around sipping your coffee and reading a book (both of which are welcome here). That comfort is what makes my favorite aspect of the Waverly experience really come to life. Around the inside of the high ceiling, headshots cover the small drop to the outer ring of the space. Mostly unknown people (though there is photo of Motley Crue!), nearly all black-and-whites, watch over you while you dine. As an actor, I find it amusing to look at the headshots, and as a diner-lover, I feel as though I'm being watched by a history of people who knew what it was like to sit right where I am sitting, enjoying cheap food, fast service, and making glorious memories. (Even if some of those memories are of picking out those terrible hair-dos and smiles that should never have been put into print.)
The Waverly Restaurant is open 24/7. It is cash only, but there is an ATM in the entrance. And... They deliver!
Not all of my posts will be quite so long, I think, but I had to put a lot into this first one. Thanks for reading!